【意大利精品白酒里程碑】
Castello della Sala酒莊所在的古堡始建于1350 年,是中世紀貴族Monaldeschi家族領地。1940年Marchesi Antinori(安東尼世家,意大利600年傳世名莊、出產意大利頂級酒款Tignanello和Solaia)收購古堡,定位為集團旗艦白葡萄酒專屬酒莊。
酒莊位於Umbria,就在Tuscan旁邊,總占地600公頃,其中229公頃為葡萄園,海拔220–470m,土壤主要是石灰岩、化石黏土同沖積砂質土,大量遠古海洋貝殼化石,賦予白酒標誌性燧石礦物質感。緊鄰Paglia河、Monte Nibbio山區,晝夜溫差大、河谷晨霧潤濕,涼爽環境極適合種植Chardonnay同本土品種Grechetto,是意大利中部頂級白葡萄酒黃金產地。
Cervaro della Sala是酒莊的旗艦白酒——它不只是一款好喝的Umbria白酒,還是Italian Fine White的奠基者之一。
首產年份是1985年,是意大利首批以大比例Chardonnay釀造 + 法國小橡木桶發酵與熟成 + 蘋酸乳酸發酵的高級乾白,開創意大利桶釀白酒風潮,打破過去意大利白酒廉價、不適桶陳的刻板印象。因為大比例使用Chardonnay(通常是90%-95%),只能標注Umbria IGT(非DOC)
2023年是近5年最優質年份,有洋槐花、柑橘皮、檸檬、生薑的香氣,還有少許可頌/奶油麵包甜香,入口有熱帶黃桃、蘋果風味,酸度明亮活潑,尾段礦物鹹感綿長,風格近似高檔Burgundy特級園,但帶意大利本土礦物靈氣。
TASTING NOTE BY WINE CRITICS
The most impressive aspect of the Castello della Sala ethos is its ability to reinvent itself. This latest edition of Umbria’s headline white is a true delight. Renzo Cotarella and his team have created an Italian masterpiece that is reminiscent of the great whites of Burgundy. The 2023 Cervaro della Sala opens to an elegantly reductive note of flint or crushed granite before sliding gracefully into silky fruit sensations, breakfast pastry and crème fraîche. It offers carefully balanced richness and textural importance. Winemaking is moving away from 500-liter barrels to embrace larger foudre. No bâtonnage is implemented. The wine is mostly Chardonnay, with a smaller part (between 5% and 10%, depending on the vintage) of Grechetto that has been further reduced in order to avoid any rustic tones from the Italian grape. Part of the Chardonnay does malolactic fermentation, but the Grechetto does not. This gives energy and verve to the final results. Castello della Sala has recently planted more Chardonnay (now totaling 80 hectares) for flexibility in choosing the best clusters. Throughout its many reinventions, this is the best Cervaro della Sala I have tasted.
97 Points by Monica Larner, The Wine Adovocate, 2025


Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Riserva DOCG 1961 


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