【德國酒王的「皇冠明珠」– Trockenbeerenauslese, TBA】
傳奇酒莊 – Egon Muller
Egon Muller被譽為德國最頂尖、最具傳奇色彩的葡萄酒莊之一,尤其以其出產的Riesling甜酒聞名全世界。酒莊位於德國Mosel產區的Saar沿岸,擁有得天獨厚的微型氣候與板岩土壤,是釀造世界級雷司令的聖地。酒莊由Müller家族世代相傳,至今已超過數百年歷史。
雷司令的「風土聖殿」 – Scharzhofberg
Scharzhofberg是Saar產區中最有名的葡萄園,也是Egon Müller的「靈魂領地」。葡萄園總面積約28公頃,其中約8.5公頃由 Müller家族獨佔。其陡峭的南向板岩坡地,能充分吸收陽光,同時在秋季清晨形成霧氣,非常利於「貴腐菌」(Botrytis cinerea)的生成,這是釀造頂級甜酒的關鍵。它以極致的風土表現、頂級雷司令的產出能力,被譽為「德國雷司令的精神原鄉」,更是全球葡萄酒愛好者心中的「風土聖殿」。
枯萄逐粒精選(Trockenbeerenauslese, 簡稱TBA)– 「雷司令 TBA 之王」
TBA是Egon Muller的巔峰之作,也是世界上最昂貴、最受追捧的白葡萄酒之一。只在特殊年份生產;葡萄需在藤上完全乾縮、受貴腐充分濃縮,逐粒挑選,每公頃產量有時不足百瓶;酒液呈深金黃至琥珀色,香氣層次驚人 —— 杏脯、棗泥、蜂蜜、柑橘蜜餞、香料與岩礦,口感濃郁如蜜但酸度極強,平衡得完美無瑕,可以陳放數十年甚至上百年,是全球拍賣場上最昂貴的甜酒之一。
TASTING NOTE BY WINE CRITICS
The 2018 Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese –Gold Capsule– (AP #12) is a perfect TBA today. White-golden in color, the nose is already seductive, with a concentrated, clear and precise fruit aroma (white peaches merging with tropical expressions such as mango or papaya) intertwined with the fascinating spiciness of the Scharzhofberg, very fine honey and raisin yet not really any botrytis tones. Enormously viscous and round on the juicy, smooth, gentle and super seductive, palate this accomplished Riesling is carried by perfectly integrated acidity and the unique, thrilling piquancy of the Scharzhofberger terroir to a soothing, perfectly balanced finish that is nothing short of endless, quoting slightly caramelized fruits. Inimitable, incomparable. Tasted several times between May and July 2020.
RATING BY WINE CRITICS
100 Points by Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Adovocate, 2020
For Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslesen, the selection principle is even more strict. Just as the sorting process during harvesting is now tightened up to the selection of individual berries, the concentration of the wines in terms of taste is also increased.
Trockenbeerenauslesen can sometimes have an almost syrupy consistency and have an enormous residual sugar content. But even with the highest sugar content, the wine still has enough acidity to give it a long, elegant and almost ethereal finish.
At our Scharzhof, Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslesen were first pressed by Egon Müller III in 1959. And after that, the tradition grew with each good vintage, although there is always the risk of an entire vintage failing if one decides to work with noble rotten grapes.
Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese from Scharzhofberg are available from 1971, 1975, 1976, 1989, 1990, 1994, 1995, 1999, 2001 2003, 2005 and 2015.
Beerenauslese alone from the years 1979, 1983, 1986, 1988, 1991 and 1993.
Trockenbeerenauslese alone from the years 1997, 2000, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021 and 2023.
All these wines can be aged for a century and more.
Infomation from: https://www.egon-mueller.de/







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